As such, for our worsted-spun yarns, once the roving is loaded on the spinning frame, they first pass through a draft zone, which drafts the fiber to open it up and reduce it to the intended weight (and thickness) required for the yarn. You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Both woolen and worsted spinning methods make beautiful yarns. So, what ply is worsted weight yarn? Usually with terms like Understanding helps tremendously and the side by side swatches were terrific. It had a lacy yoke, short sleeves, and a bit of swing at the hem. The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. Most people define semi-worsted as spinning worsted using carded fibers while spinning the way you would for worsted yarn. If the ratios are close, youre more likely to have a good match for substitution. I learned about yarn substitution the hard way. I have been looking for something to help determine how best to substitute yarn. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. A lot of totally digestable information, that was logically arranged and illustrated and you even sprinkled it with touches of humor. The term itself comes from the English town of Worstead in Norfolk England. It is named after the small English village of Worstead, in the county of Norfolk and this village was a center for manufacturing in the twelfth century. Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose. Scouring,the process in which fleece is cleaned, removes dirt and excess lanolin from the raw wool. Your email address will not be published. Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! December 2019 Everyone already said what I wanted to, so Ill just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how hes spun. It also explores the differences between woollen and worsted processing systems and products. This exciting variety can be attributed to similarly multiple factors such as individual spinning style and preference, fleece and fiber characteristics, or even environmental considerations like humidity levels. Block it the same way you plan to block the finished knit item, and set it somewhere safe to dry. So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? Extremely helpful! October 2021 Your book will be one of the few in my library, as I want those that provide me the knowledge to choose and knit wisely. The woolen yarn fabrics do not hold the crease well and are less durable than worsted yarns. Share. I am currently knitting with Empire and wondered what made me love it so much more than (another lovely but unnamed) yarn of the same gauge. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. Combed worsted yarn is superior to carded woolen yarn in strength. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. 100% Targhee-Columbia wool. Can you spot the other difference? October 2016 They are: Woolen and Worsted. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. Dye baths are created using a precise calibration of dye, temperature, and water flow to protect the lofty, softness of the wool and to ensure the colors are repeatable with every new dye lot. We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. October 2015 If you ever created your own cord or unwound a hank of yarn, then that's the exact same process. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. Woolen yarns are spun with the fibers going every which way. The fibers are carded, or brushed, in a single direction and then tightly spun together, resulting in a yarn that is smooth and has a consistent thickness. January 2019 Spun worsted style, 2 ply, ~12 wpi, 183 yds/4 oz. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Loft, Quarry, and Shelter (shown above, top to bottom) appear wispy and how the fibers in each single are oriented in every direction and nestled together in a disorderly manner. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. Its easy to see whats going on with the yarn and knitting in the samples. Woolen yarns are made of carded yarns and are fuzzy and bulky. July 2014 Worsted yarn is best used in outerwear, hats and mittens. Ive got the same question as an earlier commenter one leg of my knit stitches is tighter than the other. It makes yarn that is smooth and dense. Once its dry, use a measuring tape to determine how many stitches and rows you have in a 4 square area. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of . I have been knitting for awhile and have yet to use the yarn recommended by a designer for various reasons. I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. Just asking because s-on-s yarns produce a particular asymmetric shape when knitted. The yarn isn't smoothed, it's simply stretched out like a piece of chewing gum, that traps lots of air in the yarn, and makes it very bouncey and elastic. Worsted Weight: 250 Yards / 100 Grams. Combing the jumbled fibers aligns them in a parallel fashion and also removes shorter fibers for uniform length. Drop me a line any time. (See my Jamieson & Smith Jumper Weight vs a worsted crepe swatch.) This was the only blog with a long windup that was not only worth the read but also genuinely funny rather than trying too hard. Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. They are the same weight and have the . This is the type of information that makes a knitter more knowledgable about our purchases. Thank you so very much for the enlightening article and all the examples. To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. It was a cotton-acrylic blend that was great for items that will get heavy use. Typically worsted spun yarns will have fewer yards per pound verses woolen. Probably both because nothings ever simple ;). I finally understand what worsted and wollen mean. August 2017 But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. Semi-woolen is when combed fibers are spun in a way where the twist enters the fibers, usually when spinning from the fold. For example, a yarn labeled 2/fine (often known as fingering or sock weight) can have a WPI of anywhere from 12-18. See, what I didnt understand at the time was the fine art of yarn substitution. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". And I also now understand my past failures a little better haha! May 2021 Great explanation, i aways spin long draw and card my alpaca, tearing long strips off of the batt, i would be interested in working out what type my yarn is. This was a grat posting. I sort of knew all of this but your explanation and illustrations pulled my knowledge all together. The way a yarn is spun - worsted vs. woolen - also determines how much fiber is used per yard. So, and this is without seeing your yarn, your drafting, or the fibre, it's probably a lofty semi-worsted yarn. The Vs of stockinette are sharp, the bumps of moss are plump and clear and the holes in the lace are wide open. Oh thats right! . Note: Notice how the individual plies of Arbor and Vale (shown above, top to bottom) appear more compacted and how the fibers in each single are oriented in the same direction. July 2013 - From the online magazine Knitter's Review, by Clara Parkes. Your explanation is great, and reaffirms my decision to purchase your Yarnitecture book awhile back. Compared with worsted yarns with the same specifications, worsted core-spun yarns have the following advantages: 1. If youre making socks or colorwork, though, or working on a project that requires clear stitch definition, you should pay extra attention to how your yarn is spun. In this blog, we will take a closer look at worsted and woolen yarns and what sets them apart. But once knitted and blocked, a further bloom will take place, and the resulting fabric will be light and lush; cozy and insulating. The simple, pure honesty of her yarns, paired with a buttery softness and delicate texture, enchanted me. If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. However, there are differences between worsted weight yarns and woolen yarns as well. Cheers and Thanks. WPI is a way to measure the thickness of yarn. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Non Wool Club Im usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. Because filaments wrap the worsted core, the yarn is noticeably less uneven and has fewer defects than worsted yarns. Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation: https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. August 2015 Woolen and Worsted yarns. Worsted spun yarns are smoother and have better stitch definition to make your cables and textured stitches pop. Heres an example of what I mean: in February 2020, I released the Profiterole Hat. They also tend to have better stitch definition than single-ply yarns do. Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. Different fibers behave in different ways. February 2022 UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? These two spinning techniques are also the basic, standardized methods employed in commercial yarn production though, as noted in Knitting in the Old Way by Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts and Deborah Robson, more and more spinning mills today follow a hand spinning approach to commercial spinning, adapting processing and spinning techniques to enhance the natural characteristics of a particular fiber or to achieve a yarn well-suited for specific kinds of knitted fabric. The Merino and Corriedale wool is gathered from Midwestern farms right here in the United States. Countryside Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved 4.5 sts / inch on size US 8. Content: 100% pure new wool Put-Up: 119yd [110 m]/134 oz [50 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash in cool water Recommended Gauge: 20 sts and 28 rows = 4 (10 cm) on size 6 (4 mm) needles, Woolen-spun yarn creates little air pockets in the fiber; I like to think the process is similar to backcombing ones hair, offers Blacker Yarnss Sonja Bargielowska. In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. Yeah, were talking that level of soft. How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? If you divide the length of the yarn by the weight, you get a ratio. The yarn on the left has multiple strands of yarn plied together, while the yarn on the right is a single ply of fiber. Very well spot on! To help you do that, Ive written out this guide to things you should consider before choosing a new yarn for your project. Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. Because our yarns are washed in the hand-dying process some blooming has already occurred. Woolen spun and worsted spun are references to the way the yarn is actually spun in the spinning process. Take a look at the picture in this section. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. Twist is then inserted only as the fibers exit the draft zone, not concurrently as in our woolen-spun yarns. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Now I might be able to come closer to making the right choice for the right project. I ALWAYS substitute my yarns and I know now that my yearn choices are the reason I never seem happy with all my hard work. It isn't just a question of being one or the other though, there is a continuum of spinning structures with true worsted on one end, true woolen on the far opposite and lots of semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns in between. I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. SpoinnersAdvent October 2014 The result of this woolen-style preparation and spinning is a yarn that retains the lofty, air-trapping qualities it had before spinning. As you might have guessed, most worsted-spun yarns are not ideal for felting (fibers which are all perfectly aligned are difficult to felt! This is a fantastic article and helped me to understand in the ins and outs so clearly however, even after refreshing Im getting broken links for all the in article photos what happened? Trust me, they r super different in thickness. September 2021 Jo, You have a real gift. Woollen Yarn Woollen yarn is spun using a short staple fiber prepared by handcarding and rolled into rolags. This video is a brief overview of some different spinning techniques I've learned to spin worsted or woolen yarn and how that affects the outcome of your yar. After steaming, which allows the fibers to relax into their newly twisted state, the singles of twisted yarn are then loaded on a twisting frame to be plied together both Shelter and Loft are comprised of two singles gently twisted together to create a two-ply yarn.>. Developed and spun in Springvale Maine, we are proud to present the Jagger Spun Collection. On Instagram, just type #ProfiteroleHat into the search bar, and check out the other versions people have posted. Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. Great article, thank you for this very detailed account , I learned so much ! October 2018 Ok, first up lets look at how the fibres are running in to the yarn. Eg: tweed. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. Going to send people to this. You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. The one on the left is woolen spun, and the one on the right is worsted spun. That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. Thats because yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge of your knitting. Worsted vs. Woolen. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. On the other hand, the woolen fabrics hold creases and shape well and are more durable. Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. December 2015 Drafting is the process of adding twist to fiber, and of course it has an effect on your knitting. Woolen yarns are the ones you might find bits of hay in. Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. April 2016 In most cases, semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns could often be confused for the same thing. The carder opens up the fiber and blends it evenly, resulting in a thin cloud- or web-like sheet commonly known as abatt. Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Worsted wool can be made up into many different cloths, which may be appropriate for suits, jacket and/or trousers. Miss Babs has an orderly line. Thank you. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. Worsted-spun yarns are known for being more durable than their woolen-spun counterparts. May 2016 Spun/plied 10:1. Color is usually lighter in a woolen drafted yarn. Woolen and worsted are two different classifications of wool fabrics and yarn. I have saved this post as I will go over it again and again. Very good, educational description. Gauge: 5.5 sts / inch on US 6. August 2013 Thanks! Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. The choice truly only depends on what you enjoy working with, what kind of fabric you want to achieve, how you plan on wearing the finished object, or all of the above. They are both delightful, yet different. Domestic wool combed top from Poppy Flower Fibers, 4 oz. Put up refers to what sort of shape/size bundle the yarn is in. However, you may visit Cookie Settings to provide controlled consent. The dead giveaway of the woolen-ness of Empire is the blip of fiber sticking out. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. They are also warmer because of the airiness. I wonder if it is related to the tendancy of woollen-spuns to bloom? March 2014 Yarn and fiber folks have an extensive vocabulary for many things, but we are really stuck on the word worsted. Customer accounts enabled in your Store Admin. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. December 2016 KitILove Jill, I am a newbie to crochet and knitting, so this information is wonderful! Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. Appreciate the double check. The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. May 2018 Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. Thank you, thank you, thank you. This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. Any suggestions? These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. Learn how your comment data is processed. Youll also want to identify whether the suggested yarn in the pattern is woolen spun or worsted spun. Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. Combing was traditionally done on large heavy combs, and was done by men. Now, Cotton-Ease was a perfectly good yarn (its since been discontinued, alas).
Is Fnaf Based On Chuck E Cheese, Evnroll Er2 Vs Odyssey Double Wide, Division 2 Control Points With Mounted Guns, Christian Bale Height, Weight Batman Begins, Articles W